Proto is the only good restaurant on Stradun and one of two remaining under ownership of Mato Đurović, a former king of Dubrovnik’s restaurant scene. It is one of those typical, simple seafood restaurants that do their best when they don’t try too hard in the kitchen. At Proto you should order grilled fish, oysters, brodetto sometimes, but never risotto because they don’t know how to cook it, nor does anyone else in Dubrovnik, except for Portait. The terrace above Stradun can be too hot in summer, but the ambiance is as irresistible as in the rest of the city. Proto’s Siniša Lasan is one of Croatia’s top sommeliers.